Dog biting
Stop Dog Biting - Training Your Dog Not to Bite
There is much joy and satisfaction to be gained from our relationships
with our four-legged friends. But far too often we see headlines about
someone being seriously injured or even killed from a dog bite or attack.
Unfortunately, dog biting is an all too common problem, one which all
pet owners should take very seriously. While it may be cute to watch a
little toy dog snap and snarl, it's quite a different matter when the
dog is a large breed when biting can be truly dangerous.
What's important to understand is that all dogs can bite under the right
circumstances. This is a natural defensive behavior, and it's unrealistic
to think that any amount of forethought or training can completely eliminate
all possibility of your dog ever biting. However, there are steps you
can take to reduce the risk.
Prevention - Choosing the Right Breed
Preventing a biting problem is much easier than curing one. The first
place to begin is before you even get a dog, by selecting a breed that
is not known or bred to be aggressive. Biting can be an inbred genetic
behavior trait in some breeds of dogs, and in some cases is desirable.
For instance, guard dog breeds like Doberman Pinschers or Chow Chows are
bred to be more aggressive. Herding dogs like Border Collies or Australian
Shepherds are bred to nip at the heels of the animal being herded, which
you or your children may end up substituting for. The often snappish behavior
of some Terriers is a result of their having been bred to hunt out small
vermin and rodents. Even German Shepherds, normally benign working dogs,
if they descend from a line that has been bred for police work, can harbor
inbred traits that make them undesirable as pets.
So do your homework on breeds, and unless you need an aggressive dog
for a particular reason, choosing a calmer and more peaceful breed is
the first step to preventing a biting problem. Some small breeds can be
very "nippy," so be sure you understand breed characteristics. Even if
you feel you do need a guard or working dog, investigate any prospective
puppy's background very carefully, not just the parents, but go back several
generations, to ensure that his line was not bred for or doesn't include
any traits you don't want.
There is really no such thing as a "bad breed." Most all dogs can be
properly trained and socialized to be gentle, tolerant, and predictable.
Your dog should be trained to obey basic commands: sit, stay, come, and
down. This alone could prevent many dog-biting incidents.
(The following information is general.)
Potentially aggressive breeds:
Llasa Apso: can be cranky with kids
Toy poodles: bite out of self defense
Dachshunds: not very patient
Rhodesian Ridgebacks: very dominant breed
Miniature Pinschers: "big dog" mindset in little body
Pekinese: intolerant
Chihuahuas: prefer adults, not tolerant of kids
Chow Chow: one-person dogs, bite without warning
Giant Schnauzers: very dominant breed, will even challenge adults
Old English Sheep Dog: very protective of owner
Cocker Spaniel: very protective of owner
Rottweilers: very protective
Typically gentle breeds that have "bad boy" reputations:
German Shepherd: great with kids
Bulldog: gentle, playful
Rottweilers: can be gentle, affectionate
Great Danes: gentle, affectionate
Boxers: good with kids
Mastiffs: very docile
"Pit bull" is a bit of a misnomer. There really is no such breed. Generally,
"pit bulls" are a cross between a "bulldog" breed and a terrier. They
are also known as American Pit Bull Terriers, American Staffordshire Terriers,
and Staffordshire Bull Terriers. Most "pit bulls" are not aggressive by
nature and tend to be gentle, playful and loving. However, there are those
that have been bred and trained to be aggressive. Even then, they are
more aggressive toward other animals, not people. Often, aggressive "pit
bulls" have been abused and/or neglected. Then the dog is to be considered
very dangerous.
However, all dogs can be provoked to bite by:
1. Try to take food or toy away from him. Never bother a dog while he
is eating. The most common situation where a dog bite occurs is while
a dog is eating.
2. Playing "tug of war" with a dog. Many dogs interpret this as aggression.
If they "win," they feel empowered. If they feel threatened, they may
try to retaliate.
3. "Surprising" a dog by sneaking up on him or startling him while he
is sleeping. Many times the dog's defense mechanism will kick in, and
he will bite in self-defense.
4. "Rough housing" with or other sudden movements toward the dog's owner.
Many dogs will see this as an attack on his owner, and will attack you
to defend the owner.
5. Ignoring their warning! If a dogs barks ferociously or growls when
you approach his territory, bed, etc. and you continue, that is an invitation
to get bitten. They are warning you that they don't like that and stop.
Listen!
6. Inappropriate touching. Dogs generally don't like their ears, tail,
and feet tugged. Some don't like being inverted up-side-down and rubbed
on their belly. This is a position of submission and an aggressive dog
will resist this "challenge" vigorously.
Bite Inhibition
No matter what the breed, all puppies want and will try to bite. Biting
and mouthing are normal behaviors for puppies. Dogs don't have hands so
they investigate objects and their environment with their mouths. To a
curious puppy, everything about the world is brand new and exciting. He
learns as he goes along. Playing is also a normal learning behavior for
puppies, especially play-fighting. Play-fighting with littermates and
other animals develops coordination, reflexes, and physical skills. In
addition, it helps them develop social skills, and teaches them how to
interact positively within their pack. And it's great fun for them.
Bite inhibition refers to both a dog's ability to control the force of
his biting, and the training to reinforce that ability. If a puppy is
left with its mother and littermates for a proper amount of time, they
will be the ones to take care of his first training as to when and where
biting is allowed. There is a fairly short window of time in which this
can best be accomplished, which is part of the reason it's not a good
idea to take a puppy from its mother too soon. Puppies seem to learn a
great deal about bite inhibition and authority between five and eight
weeks of age through play with their mothers and littermates.
If you take a puppy when it's very young, less than eight weeks old,
then you will have to be the one to teach him to inhibit his biting tendencies.
Puppies that receive little or no training in bite inhibition, either
from their mothers or their people, may grow up to develop behavior problems.
For instance, if a puppy tries to bite his mother, she will yelp very
loudly, growl in his face with bared teeth, and then turn away and shun
him completely for a period of time. This gives him the message, loud
and clear, that if he bites he will get an unpleasant reaction and then
no attention at all. If he persists, the mother dog will turn on him,
again with a snarling growl, get hold of him by the scruff of the neck
with her teeth, and shake him sternly, not letting go until he goes limp
in submission. Really obnoxious puppies are dealt with by mother dog knocking
them over with her paw, pinning them to the ground, and pinching them
with her teeth.
If you have a very young puppy, or one whose training was for some reason
not accomplished in the natural way, then you must imitate mother dog's
"yelp, shun, shake and pin" tactics if you want the lesson about not biting
to stick. If he bites you, yell, "Ouch!" very loudly, or give a high pitched
yelp as the mother dog would do, grasp him firmly by the scruff of his
neck, shake him (though don't lift him up) and give the command, "No Bite!"
Hold him down for a second or two, and then let him go and ignore him
for several minutes. Repeat as necessary.
If you don't like or have success using this method, there are a few
others you can try. They include:
- Making a trade. Trade your arm (or foot or fingers) for an appropriate
toy.
- Instant muzzle. The second your puppy tries to bite your hand, turn
it around and grab his muzzle, holding it firmly closed for a few seconds.
- Shake the can. Fill an empty soda or other can with a handful of coins
or pebbles. When your puppy starts to nip, startle him by shaking the
can or dropping it next to him, while at the same time giving the command,
"No Bite!" Praise him when he stops, and give him something appropriate
to chew.
- Metal spoon. There are two variations on this method.
" The first is to put some food or a treat on the end of a metal spoon,
and hold it up and slightly tilted downward, so the puppy has to reach
up. If he just grabs, his teeth will hit the metal, and he won't like
that at all. In time he'll learn to just open his mouth and let you drop
the food into it. Keep moving the spoon closer to your fingers, so that
eventually, he is opening his mouth and letting you put food into it without
biting your fingers.
" The other spoon trick is to bend an old or cheap spoon handle over your
thumb, keeping the bowl of it in the palm of your hand. Then extend your
hand out to the puppy, and when he bites, he will bite the metal. Again,
since he won't like that at all, the idea is that he will eventually learn
not to bite your hand.
Correction
If you have an adult dog who has not learned to control his biting and
aggression it is helpful if you can determine the reasons for your dog's
aggressive behavior. Though often overlapping, aggressive behaviors can
be roughly divided into four types:
1. Play biting occurs when the "cute" behaviors have been allowed to
go on for too long, and the dog has become habituated to bite as a playful
gesture.
2. Dominance. If your puppy or young dog growls when you approach him
at his food dish, or growls or snaps when you try to groom him, or behaves
aggressively toward other pets or your children, snapping or nipping,
he is attempting to establish his dominance. He is trying to assert his
position in the "pack" order, and he wants to be top dog.
3. Territorial aggression might show itself in a tendency to bark at the
mailman, for instance, or to chase cars or bicycles, or spray urine to
mark his territory. This is the type of behavior that often results in
a dog biting the meter reader or the mailman.
4. Fear. This is a problem with extremely shy or timid dogs, who are very
fearful, especially in new situations and with new people. This can be
frustrating as they can strike out without warning and snap or bite if
someone reaches for them or tries to pet them.
Though it is far preferable to have prevented such behavior in the first
place, there are nevertheless some methods you can try to correct even
established behavior. Of course, the younger the dog, the more likely
you are to be successful. Patience, consistency, and persistence are of
paramount importance.
Play Biting:
For play biting, refer back to the part on bite inhibition for puppies,
and making it not fun for your dog to bite in play.
- Stop playing any and all roughhousing games such as tug-of-war or chasing
games. Don't let any games become too intense, and try to prevent your
dog from becoming too excited, as that is often when biting occurs. Keep
play sessions short.
- Give your dog plenty of opportunities to chew appropriately by providing
him with sturdy bones and chew toys.
- If your dog growls or bites in play, say "No Bite" in a loud, firm voice,
and immediately stop playing. If any toys were involved, take them away.
Completely ignore your dog for a few minutes, and then resume play. If
he bites, do it all over again. Repeat this as often as necessary. When
your dog gets to the point of obeying the "No Bite" command without additional
correction, be sure to praise and reward him.
- Try putting something bitter or hot on your hands. Then, when your dog
bites you and backs off from the bad taste, praise him, and immediately
give him something appropriate to bite, like a chew toy. One tip is to
only put the nasty substance on the backs of your hands, so as not to
get the taste on any treats you many hand out as rewards.
Dominance Biting
In the case of a dog with a dominant biting problem, the only solution
is to make yourself the pack leader (alpha dog) in no uncertain terms.
The dog must be at the bottom of the pack. You absolutely must be willing
and able to dominate every aspect of your dog's life, or you have lost
before you've begun.
Refuse to tolerate his dominance aggression:
- Never, ever, under any circumstances, let your dog win a showdown. Be
absolutely and consistently in charge, and never weaken that stance.
- Do not let him eat until you command him to come, and give him permission.
- Make him sit and heel before being petted, or going outside, or getting
into or out of the car. It's not the sitting and heeling that's so important,
as establishing the fact that you make the rules, and he must do as you
say. An aggressive dog will always exploit any weakness on your part,
so don't show any.
- Crate him during meals, and do not let him eat until you have finished.
- When you play games like "fetch" or "tug of war," do not let your dog
end up with the ball or rope when you are finished. Keep it yourself,
even if you have to wrestle it out of his mouth. Remember, you must win!
- Do not let your dog sleep in your bedroom or on your bed - reserve this
space for your family, and enforce the boundaries.
- Buy a muzzle and keep it on except for feeding and giving treats.
- Try to alter any objects or people that seem to trigger aggressive behavior.
For example, if your dog is occupying a living room chair and growls when
you approach, then forbid him the chair - no exceptions. Or if he growls
at one family member, then make that person responsible for his care,
as dogs do not usually bite someone on whom they rely for food and water.
Of course, especially if this is a child, supervise very carefully so
you can step in if necessary to protect that person from being bitten.
Be sure to follow standard procedures of dog training by observing and
promptly rewarding any signs of submission from your dog, such as laying
his ears down against his head, or lowering his head and curling his tail
around his body, or refusing to make eye contact. Praise him and give
him with treats. But don't praise him and love him out of the blue for
no reason at all, no matter how affectionate you might feel, as this will
just confuse him.
In order to avoid a situation where the dog obeys only you, but is still
aggressive toward other family members, you may have to train them too,
particularly if you have a family member(s) who is passive or submissive.
For instance, it's common to see a situation where a dog will obey the
husband in a family, but completely ignore the wife or children. Don't
let this happen. Encourage your family members (with your supervision)
to also establish their dominance over the dog, using the same methods,
and promptly praising and rewarding submissive behavior.
Eventually, step it up a notch, to include training the dog to let you
hold his paws, or hold his head still, or hold him down in a laying position.
Again, always promptly praise and reward the desired behavior.
Territorial Aggression
If your dog exhibits territorial aggression, some of the specific steps
might differ a bit, but essentially the main approach is the same:
- The first step is to assert your dominance as leader of the pack, and
establish the hierarchy of the pack, with every other member of your family
in order above the dog, who is at the bottom. If you do this systematically
and consistently, your dog will look to you for direction when, for example,
someone comes to your door. If you accept the person, your dog will too.
If you are fearful or alarmed, your dog will be too.
- Get a few friends or neighbors to help you out by approaching your house
and cautiously feeding your dog some treats. Or ask a willing friend to
take your dog for short walks on a leash. The idea is for the dog to accept
your leadership as to who is and is not trustworthy.
- Clearly establish the limits of your dog's territory by fencing your
yard and making sure he knows where he is and is not allowed - on the
porch, for instance, but not the front steps; or on the sofa, but not
the bed.
- If your dog chases cars or bicycles, take a ride, arming yourself first
with a squirt gun of some range, loaded with diluted vinegar. Drive slowly
and when the dog gives chase and/or tries to nip, squirt him decisively,
between the eyes if you can, saying "No" firmly each time. Do it again.
Eventually he will get the idea that it is not fun to chase a moving vehicle.
If necessary, repeat the lesson with a bicycle, tricycle, scooter, or
whatever other conveyance he likes to chase.
- If he chases your children, arm them with a squirt gun and have them
repeat the exercise as above, firmly saying "No" every time the dog tries
to nip. If they are very little, then you watch for the behavior and do
the squirting and give the command yourself.
Fear
Dogs who bite out of fear have likely missed an important window of opportunity
for socialization when they were very young, were born to a mother who
is also shy, or else have an inborn genetic leaning toward timidity. The
best way to correct this type of behavior is to try to re-socialize a
timid dog so that he is not so scared. If you can increase his confidence,
you can decrease the likelihood that he will bite out of fear.
Some ways to do this are:
- Watch for signs your dog is uncomfortable, scared, or angry. Dogs don't
know how to cry, so a frightened dog's instinct is to bite.
- Socialize your dog. Keep him on a short, tight leash. Introduce him
to many different types of people and situations so that he is not nervous
or frightened under normal social circumstances. Shy or fearful dogs can
react defensively when approached by unfamiliar people. They may try to
keep strangers away by growling, snarling or snapping. These behaviors
must not be ignored. No dog should be allowed to get away with acting
aggressively towards humans. The fact that your dog is shy is no excuse
to condone growling or biting. You must instantly and effectively reprimand
such behavior. As soon as your dog stops acting aggressive, praise him
because you want your dog to think that his obnoxious behavior causes
you to get angry - not that the presence of the stranger brings on the
reprimand.
- Feed him only from your hands, taking care, of course, that he is not
agitated or in an unfamiliar situation that could result in your being
bitten.
- Ask your veterinarian about using a prescribed tranquilizer to calm
your dog while exposing him to anxiety-inducing situations.
Management
If you have tried all the above methods for training your dog not to
bite and nothing has worked, the only choice you may have left is to manage
him so that he does not bite you or anyone else. Some ways to do this
are:
- Muzzle him. Depending on his degree of aggressiveness, you could use
merely a soft fabric muzzle, or a sturdy leather one. For large or extremely
aggressive dogs a steel and leather muzzle is the only kind strong enough.
- Contain him. If your dog is an aggressive guard dog, rather than a pet,
you may have no choice but to contain him while people are around, if
you want to be absolutely sure he doesn't bit anyone. You could tether
him with a chain or other sturdy tie; or keep him in a run or outdoor
kennel; or secure him indoors in a crate or confined to a particular room
or area of your home. Contain him or else take a chance on someone being
bitten, and possibility of fines and lawsuits.
- Euthanasia. This is extreme but if your dog has already bitten viciously,
and is a full-grown, adult dog, especially a large breed, the most humane
thing to do may be to have him euthanized. Consider that he will not enjoy
a life of constant confinement, nor will you enjoy peace of mind, having
to always be on guard lest he get loose and bite again. This is the most
extreme solution, and not to be taken lightly, but if your situation warrants
it, it can save you much grief in the end, as well as possibly save a
life.
Of course, the best thing to do is be aware of the potential problems
inherent in biting behavior long before matters can ever get to an extreme
state. As you can see, recognizing and understanding the importance of
proper bite inhibition is the key to preventing and correcting any biting
problems, whether they stem from play or aggression or fear. Establish
your dominance from the start, give yourself and your dog the benefit
of obedience training, communicate well, be consistent, correct any problems
the instant they appear, and you and your dog will enjoy a peaceful, happy
and loving relationship for many years to come.
The Bottom Line:
Train your dog. Accompanying your dog to a training class is an excellent
way to socialize him and to learn proper training techniques. Teach basic
commands. Train your dog. Teach basic commands.
One cause of biting is pain. If you suspect pain as the cause, see your
veterinarian immediately. Keep your dog healthy.
License your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care.
Make sure you have him vaccinated against rabies and other diseases. Spayed
or neutered dogs are much less likely to bite. An unneutered dog is more
than 3 times as likely to attack. Often this alone will do a great deal
to reduce unwanted aggressive behaviors, including biting.
Dogs are social animals. Spend quality time with your dog and make your
dog a member of your family - dogs who spend a great deal of time alone
in the backyard or tied on a chain often become dangerous. Dogs that are
well-socialized and supervised are much less likely to bite.
Just as humans do, dogs protect things they care about such as their
food and favorite toys. They also protect spaces - their own and their
owners. Eating and sleeping areas, yards, porches, and parked cars are
all commonly defended by dogs.
The vast majority of dogs are safe, reliable companions. But even a friendly
dog may bite if threatened, angry, afraid, or hurt.
Never leave a baby or small child alone with a dog.
Always walk your dog on-leash.
Get your dog used to having you touch and groom him at an early age.
Dogs have to have a lot of care and grooming throughout their lifetime
that involves touching, stroking, holding, or restraining. He may only
be warning you with a growl, but if you let it be there will come a time
when you have to give him medication or otherwise restrain him, and he's
liable to bite.
Properly socialize your puppy. Before the age of 4 months, your puppy
should be introduced to all of the things he'll see in his adult lifetime.
(If not then it's likely he'll be terrified of those things later when
he encounters them.) Socialize him beyond the normal casual encounters
with people, by exposing him to a wide range of different sights, sounds,
and textures.
- Textures could include pavement, rugs, cement, sand, grass, gravel,
linoleum, and dirt.
- Sights would include other animals, trees, insects, men with beards
and/or mustaches, women and men with hats, people in wheelchairs, people
with canes, teenagers, traffic, the veterinarian, toddlers, vacuum cleaners,
cars, bicycles, stairs, etc.
- Sounds may include loud thunder, traffic, airplanes, trains, the sounds
of children playing, music, and normal household sounds.
Introduce him to everything! If the dog is not afraid of it, he won't
try to attack it to defend himself. A well-adjusted dog is not a biting
dog.
There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But
you can significantly reduce the possibility of it ever happening.
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